tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post6919218728088619089..comments2024-03-18T07:23:32.809-04:00Comments on Gurney Journey: Photographing PaintingsJames Gurneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01870848001990898499noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-87459963855220379432013-10-12T15:30:55.412-04:002013-10-12T15:30:55.412-04:00Curious: quick answer is that I just resize to abo...Curious: quick answer is that I just resize to about 500-700px across in jpeg, and vignette to white sometimes. Don't know if there's a better way. I always save a larger version of the shot for print uses.James Gurneyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01870848001990898499noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-81098683045297513612013-10-12T15:01:18.848-04:002013-10-12T15:01:18.848-04:00This is an older post, so I'm not sure you'...This is an older post, so I'm not sure you'll see this. I'm wondering if you could speak to resizing and otherwise optimizing images of artwork for the web. I've done a fair amount of research on the topic, and the amount of misinformation out there is astonishing. Since you're fast becoming my art-guru-on-the-web, I'd love to hear your own rules of thumb for balancing load-up times with file sizes and image quality, as well as what software you use. Art appreciators like to be able to access the details of images, but how does one make the necessary compromises on the web? Thanks so much for everything.Curious Samhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16521390293410406711noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-26073403012214470202011-12-08T10:04:45.532-05:002011-12-08T10:04:45.532-05:00Thanks for this article. The way you wrote it show...Thanks for this article. The way you wrote it shows your caring for the process involved. I just started a blog—about art and faith—and this article reminded me, when I include the process portions to each of my posts, that I need to care about what I include so that it's sufficiently detailed and relevant.<br /><br />drawingfaith.blogspot.comBrandon A. Miltgenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09971780052282206864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-31696685035087381512011-12-07T15:46:26.879-05:002011-12-07T15:46:26.879-05:00Great information. I was going to ask what you do ...Great information. I was going to ask what you do when it is rainy, but I see you just make do. :) I was wondering because it rained here (Seattle) for nearly 6 months straight last fall/winter. Tough time for photos.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06126326922975456739noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-79598815546250266342011-12-04T21:28:24.555-05:002011-12-04T21:28:24.555-05:00Don, for me the key to shooting in full sun is the...Don, for me the key to shooting in full sun is the reflector. The fill light reduces the texture to a perfect level. The problem I usually have in shooting in open shade is that no matter how I set it up there's a lot of light behind me, which puts glare into the darks.James Gurneyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01870848001990898499noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-28652744989542204502011-12-04T20:58:53.319-05:002011-12-04T20:58:53.319-05:00I'm surprised, too, that you take your pics in...I'm surprised, too, that you take your pics in full sun. I have always had the best results on overcast - but still fairly bright days. The white clouds seem to give me the truest colors with no glare or unwanted texture. <br /><br />Many folks like to shoot in the shade on a sunny day, but the blue sky usually creates a lot of blue cast under these conditions, in my experience.<br /><br />I have the original digital rebel which definitely exaggerates the reds. I suppose each camera brand, or sensor type has its own characteristics. So some manipulation on the computer is always necessary.Don Ketchekhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17292878945237514865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-1540119354934465842011-12-04T19:01:31.620-05:002011-12-04T19:01:31.620-05:00Mark, I try to use the gray scale as well as the c...Mark, I try to use the gray scale as well as the color bars, mostly to just have in the shot for printer and engravers. I'm not much of an expert with Photoshop. I just do a bit with Levels (sometimes Autolevels when I'm in a rush) and adjust Curves once in a while, maybe a bit of sharpening if it seems to help it. <br /><br />My Digital Rebel if anything seems to increase the chroma more than I see in the original, so I often have to dial that down or adjust the color balance if it looks tilted in one direction or another.<br /><br />But you're right: I've saved quite a few shots that were done in really lousy light with a few basic adjustments.James Gurneyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01870848001990898499noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-30738394860871755182011-12-04T18:53:54.771-05:002011-12-04T18:53:54.771-05:00Thanks for the information! I have to say that th...Thanks for the information! I have to say that the digital age has freed me up from having to shoot my art with tungsten light bulbs and tungsten film. A gray scale and/or a color card, whatever light is available, a digital camera, and Photoshop has really allowed artists to shoot wherever they want. Even if the light is really color-cast, as long as you have enough information in the blacks and lights, you can use PS to bring back the balance in the white, black, and gray to restore all that color.<br />The only thing that a grayscale adjustment can't predict is the intensity of the color saturation. I'd like to know how you use the color swatches and Photoshop to re-adjust color instead of a grayscale bar.Mark Tedinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14411348132905414615noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-34860281263442359682011-12-04T01:44:22.627-05:002011-12-04T01:44:22.627-05:00I either shoot my work indoors in at least some na...I either shoot my work indoors in at least some natural light to supplement my full color spectrum fixtures or outdoors in light shade, weather permitting. <br /><br />My camera is a Nikon D80. I'll vary the white balance to see what setting gives me the most accurate color.<br /><br />I use a tripod and also shoot at F11 or F16 with slow shutter speed, which seems to give me the best color fidelity.<br /><br />I don't use a color card, but I suppose I should. I dump all my images into Aperture, pick the best image and do my cropping and basic corrections there. If necessary I'll then load it into Photoshop CS4 for whatever further tweaking is needed.<br /><br />I photograph the piece before varnishing (I work in oil) to avoid "pinholes" as much as possible.sfoxhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14641207520270872175noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-32351134388998777212011-12-03T19:40:35.214-05:002011-12-03T19:40:35.214-05:00That's all very good advice but whaddaya do wh...That's all very good advice but whaddaya do when your forecast calls for several days of rain? I shoot with my Canon 40D on a tripod and the painting in my easel in the studio. But the key element is that I'm using 5000K spiral florescent bulbs. The 5000K rating is critical! Lower or higher K ratings will distort to warmer or cooler colors. I've found this method is as close to natural daylight as you can get for the price and you won't have to worry about weather .. or worse .. bugs landing in your wet paint!!! Avoiding glare is all about where you position your light in the triangular relationship between the light, the painting and the camera.Kirk Witmerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04423367005924513750noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-29465632030996163752011-12-03T15:00:00.760-05:002011-12-03T15:00:00.760-05:00Thank you so much. That is really helpful! I have ...Thank you so much. That is really helpful! I have the same camera and I'm eager to try your technique.Gardenarthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10825293576137113989noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-698360494167772072011-12-03T11:53:19.265-05:002011-12-03T11:53:19.265-05:00Thanks so much for this. I need to get a Kodak col...Thanks so much for this. I need to get a Kodak color ref card.<br /><br />I use a gray card to get a manual exposure, using my camera's meter and then bracket it 1 or 2 stops on either side. I usually shoot in overcast, because the diffused light cuts down on glare and shadows (too much impasto?) and it seems like when ever I need to shoot it is overcast. But I agree this might not be helping the color. I don't set the white balance but I shoot it with a pure white piece of tape, then take it in to PS and use the white dropper under "curves" to correct it back. <br /><br />I think I'll try your method.Daroohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02269629297022511462noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-44984851490863969512011-12-03T11:26:12.393-05:002011-12-03T11:26:12.393-05:00This is very interesting, and good stuff. I hope i...This is very interesting, and good stuff. I hope if/when you decide to make a third book this post makes it in.Keith Parkerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14579786144772849547noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-79805450058598023622011-12-03T10:32:20.053-05:002011-12-03T10:32:20.053-05:00Thanks very much for this post James.
Now I'll...Thanks very much for this post James.<br />Now I'll try to simulate a full noon sun in my apartment ;) I guess a carefully balanced white should make it with indoor lights. And maybe a halogen floor lamp which is more powerful than a regular bulb will be fine. I got to make some tests...<br />Thanks again for your very fast answer!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17069365716039887816noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-6019138384402609492011-12-03T10:17:49.739-05:002011-12-03T10:17:49.739-05:00I shoot in full sun too. It seems to make color co...I shoot in full sun too. It seems to make color correction very minimal as my Nikon seems to capture color most accurately in this sort of light.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05975643397065262440noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-82947778594092842882011-12-03T09:24:30.649-05:002011-12-03T09:24:30.649-05:00I'm surprised that you shoot in full noon sun....I'm surprised that you shoot in full noon sun. I have always heard folks preferring to shoot in overcast conditions or use a defuser to filter the direct sun. With all of your McGyver-esque contraptions, your shooting set up is remarkably simple too ;)Michael Dooneyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00246162742705076367noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-42882503078996375972011-12-03T09:19:50.099-05:002011-12-03T09:19:50.099-05:00Thanks so much for this post, James. It's choc...Thanks so much for this post, James. It's chock full of information that I'll use (or at least adapt). My camera is lower tech than yours, but I can still use much of what you cover here.Tom Harthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04770238579550226268noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2999230124118604245.post-46385835796190224592011-12-03T08:29:59.209-05:002011-12-03T08:29:59.209-05:00I've been taking photos of my work in the shad...I've been taking photos of my work in the shade, so as not to have glare off of my acrylic paint. I also sometimes set the camera to "mirror lock-up" and use a remote to avoid vibration. I take a few shots at different settings, different speeds mostly, and then pick the best one.Jason de Graafhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10868919286444934001noreply@blogger.com